Modelling the MG
My first attemp on painting turns out not the best of first attemps. If you wish you to change the base color, priming is needed, so it says. I had an interior green, definitely not the same color as the Zaku, but it actually turns out great when I tried painting the runners, not so great however, when I tried it on the actual plastic model. Well that settles it, I need primer; Gunze Sangyo’s Mr. Surfacer 1000. Here are few topics I want to stress out on my first MG.
Color Scheme - With the current Paint I have, I’m thinking of white base for armor, the Interior Green for the Core and black for the engine. I’m going to color the line arts and see how it turns out.
Shading/Shadowing - At first I didn’t plan on doing this, but plain colors just look dull. With shading, plastic models look MUCH more realistic. I’m just going to do pre-shading with the guns. First I lay down the darker black color then I brush in white, mostly on parts with less exposure to wear & tear, in this case around the centre.
Shiny Silver - The way I see it ppl tend to focus & show off the pistons, and for a good reason, apply some realistic shiny metallic color and you have realistic freakin ass pistons which enhance the engine parts, reminding yourself that it’s not a toy, but a realistic model! I also notice some bolts on the armor plating, they will look awesome if I give them shiny metallic color.
Dry Brushing - To show worn out edges of the armor platings. According to Katotts, Tamiya Enamel is usually used, white or grey probably. In proper drybrushing, results slowly appear after about 20 strokes
of the brush (some might say hundreds). If a single stroke causes paint
to show, the procedure is being overdone.And to pick up some extra sets of paints & tools, this time I
hope can get them in much cheaper price in Singapore or Online order.
